Courtright Reservoir, Labour Day weekend, September 1999
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After all my recent trips I was contemplating a quiet weekend at home--inspite
of the upcoming three day Labour Day weekend--but then a climbing trip to an
area I'd never been was posted to the list and it was just too tempting...
Kelly couldn't get Monday off work so it was to be a Fri-Sun three days
instead of the Sat-Mon everyone else was having. He picked me up at 7:30am
and we were soon on our way out of town on the familiar 580, then east on 132
to 99 and south towards COURTRIGHT Res. on the edge of Kings Canyon NP--alas
bypassing Fresno so I didn't get to see if it's really as bad as everyone 
says...Arriving at the blue dome-surrounded reservoir we secured a site at 
Trapper Springs campground then headed to POWER DOME intent on climbing A
LITTLE NUKEY (5.9-). The dome was easy to find but the way to the base? 
No...no, this won't go...here's too steep...round the back and down? At this
rate we won't have time to climb 5 pitches...okay, let's do some short climbs
on this face. Out came the guidebook, we picked out a couple of climbs and soon
I was leading FUN RUN (5.7) to the base of NOSE JOB (5.9). Unusually Kelly had
an altitude headache and didn't much feel like climbing, but since we were
there I had a go at leading it--an experience very much like climbing a long
narrow nose from tip to bridge, and with about as many holds! Coming back to
take on A Little Nukey the next morning we met up with another pair of climbers
who showed us the way down. The first four pitches of ALN alternated 5.8
and 5.9 making it easy to decide who had first lead and up I went! At the top
of the 4th pitch Kelly spotted a bolt above an intimidating roof and insisted
on stealing my lead and taking us that way instead. Ouch! my left bicep...I 
only managed the move past the roof with the help of the rope. Topping out
we headed back to camp to do a couple of routes on adjacent Marmot/Spring 
Dome---MARMOTROMP (5.10b)--look Ma, no hands! (or at least nowhere to put
them)--and UP, JUMP, SPRING! (5.8+), Kelly leading MR and I UJS. Then it was
back to Power Dome on Sunday morning to climb WELCOME TO COURTRIGHT (5.9+/10a).
The climbers on Saturday had said the crux was in the 3rd or 4th pitch, so I 
led pitches 1 and 2 and Kelly 3 and 4. After following Kelly up Marmotromp 
my perception of what made acceptable foot and hand holds had changed 
completely and the rock seemed positively covered in features. With much 
mantling and trusting-of-feet we moved upwards, averaging 4 placements per 
full rope length pitch and frequently being glad we were tall...The 5th pitch 
took me to the top, Kelly soon joined me and with smiles at a great climb well 
climbed we headed back to the car. Before we could leave the lovely area and 
head back to Berkeley however we had to find a 5.10 for me to try to lead. 
Kelly suggested the very short PHONE SEX IS SAFE SEX might be a good one so 
it was off to Trapper Dome to give it a go. Alas it proved harder than Kelly
remembered and I was only able to climb it by pulling on the quickdraw I'd
clipped to the first bolt, so my first 5.10 lead will have to wait for 
another day...After sorting gear next to the reservoir where we'd have a view
(nothing scrambles gear quite like climbing!) we headed home, forgetting to
watch Kelly's car click over from 239999 to 240000...